Beekeeping

I began my beekeeping adventure as I do most of my projects...blindly and with very little knowledge of the subject. My beloved neighbors and fellow farm gals, Nancy and Beverly, were planning on keeping bees, and they invited me to join them in this endeavor so we could learn together. Beverly and her husband were already hosting an apiary at a hot springs and wellness facility down the road from us. So we had some kind of resource upon which to draw.

I believe it is important to help our bee populations flourish and thrive, especially since we have experienced a massive die-off of these important pollinators. Remember, no bees means no food in many respects. At the very least you can do your part by creating a garden that will attract and feed bees and butterflies. A small plot of yummy milkweed, flowers, and even dandelions would help to keep your local bees and butterflies happy. I suggest you, the fledgling farmer, do your research to see if there are local ordinances prohibiting, or guidelines restricting, the keeping of bees. 
Investment
A new colony of bees, or Nuc, can run you anywhere from 150 to 200 dollars, depending on where you're purchasing them. Typically one plans on ordering a nuc as early as February but no later than March, with the intention of picking up your bee babies very early in the morning when they are not active. Of course, you will need to have a bee box situated on your property complete with frames and a nearby water source where the bees can safely land and drink. We will talk more about location later on.
Your first bee box should be what is referred to as a "deep." It is a large 9" deep by 20" long wooden frame of a box that holds either eight or ten "frames" of comb for the bees to create babies and to fill with honey.  The price of a deep can run anywhere from $30 to $60, and you can also build your own for less money.  The comb can be made of either natural wax or plastic. I prefer ten frame hives to eight frame. But your situation may warrant a smaller hive such as an eight frame.  I purchase frames from a friend, ten for $20. Purchasing them on-line will cost slightly more.

You will want to have a second deep with frames ready because your hive will rapidly expand. After the two deeps are full, you then need to place a more shallow box, or "honey super" on top.  The dimensions are 6" tall and 20" long, and frames for this box are shorter, but you will need 8 to 10 of them depending on your type of hive. A super will cost about $35, but you can purchase one that is unassembled for cheaper. This is also possible with a deep. I believe purchasing locally is cheaper overall.
You'll need some sort of protection for when you're checking on your bees or pulling frames for honey. Most feed stores now stock bee equipment, and you can get a good bee suit and gloves for less than you would pay ordering. If you do need to order your suit on-line a suit that covers you from head to toe is around $135, or you can buy just a top half for $75. Gloves go for about $75. It's also necessary to purchase a "hive tool" that one uses to pull out the frames, among other beekeeping activities. A hive tool runs about $10 for a "J Hook," the kind I like, or $16 for a multi-purpose. Once again, buying local will probably save you some money.
Finally, you will need two or more Mason jars that you can fill with sugar water. The specifications on how to go about creating your honey feeder are as follows....

Setting Up Your Hive:
Try to find an area in your yard or farm that will provide some shade in the summer and protection from the wind and rain in the winter. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it will help your bees survive and thrive if they have a nice home to begin with. Place your hive so that it is in the direction of the morning's sunrise.
Level the ground where you plan to place your hive so that you can put two pavers, side by side, on an even surface of ground. Place four cinder blocks, two on either side, on top of the cinder blocks. The raised hive will allow for easier hive inspection and save your back! Place your screened bottom board on top of the cinder blocks so that it is situated evenly over both sections and stable. Your first deep full of frames goes on top of the bottom board, your second deep after that, and then remaining honey supers. Finally, place a hive inner cover, (around $15),  between your deeps and supers if you like. This provides the bees with more room. Finally you'll want to put on a top. I prefer a "telescoping" lid because it hangs about two inches over the sides of the uppermost box. These run around $25. I suggest you look on-line, or check your local bee supplier, for lids that appeal to you. I also like to top the entire hive with a pitched, or "gabled" roof, but they can be hard to find. They allow ventilation through a small, screened hole. The hole is screened to prevent robber bees from trying to enter your hive. These roofs keep snow of the hive and add extra protection. They are hollow, so that you can still place your jar of sugar water over the hole of the upper lid. I know of one site called HoneyBeeSuite.com that provides plans on making your own roof.

Here's a photo of one of my hives so you can see what the finished product should look like.