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Homemade Electrolytes (with credit going to Lisa Steele of "Fresh Eggs Daily)
You can save a little money by making your own electrolytes instead of purchasing them from your local feed store! This recipe may be used full strength on severely ailing chickens. However, to simply give your girls a boost during warm weather mix this into their drinking water at one cup per gallon of water.
1 Cup water 1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons sugar
You can save a little money by making your own electrolytes instead of purchasing them from your local feed store! This recipe may be used full strength on severely ailing chickens. However, to simply give your girls a boost during warm weather mix this into their drinking water at one cup per gallon of water.
1 Cup water 1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons sugar
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Integrating Pullets
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Counting Chickens (more fun than counting sheep!)
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If one of your hens is getting pecked by other hens, Pick-no-more can stop the abuse
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Chickens love the dust!
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And they love yogurt. And it's good for them!
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Sometimes the chickens get leg mites...Petroleum oil (Vaseline) smothers the mites and prevents new ones.
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The teenagers find their way into the hen house...bedtime!
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Cool chickens are happy chickens!
Coco shows us how to make a swamp cooler for the chicken coop! How cool is that? This design is improved upon in the video at the top of the page entitled "Air Conditioning for Chickens." Post script: Based on advice from a viewer, (thank you Mari!), I ultimately decided to raise the fan higher towards the chickens' perches by using a small table. Make certain that the frozen water jugs are secure...mine had toppled overnight!
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No more flies for Wildfire!
Citronella spray is great for fending off flies. |
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How to make breakfast for the chickens
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Chicken Breakfast Recipe (credit to Lisa Steele of "Fresh Eggs Daily")
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Note: I use organic products when I can, but they are more expensive.
1-3 large canisters whole raw oats (grocery-store size) or equivalent organic oats from bulk section. Lisa suggests 1 canister, but I use three to stretch it out a bit, since I have so many chickens. 4 cups shelled sunflower seeds, (I use raw, organic) 4 cups dried seaweed, (I use 1 .54 oz. bag) 2 cups flax seed 2 1/2 cups garlic powder or granules (approx. 3% of the mix) 1 cup brewer's yeast Optional, depending on your preference: 1 1/2 cups probiotic powder (approx. 2% of mix) 2 1/2 cups food-grade diatomaceous earth (approx. 2%) 2 cups assorted dried herbs. NOTE: These can be expensive so I don't always add them. However, you can make your own dried herbs which is ultimately cheaper! See how on my "Food Preservation" page. Stir entire mixture until well blended. Place in airtight containers. Sprinkle about a handful over food receptacles every morning. |
How to clean a hen house
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Part 1
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Part 2
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Part 1: Integrating pullets |
Part 2: Integrating pullets |
Part 3: Integrating pullets |
Winter Work! |
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Billy saves the day!
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Introducing a New Rooster, or any new member to the Flock
As I write this, my rooster, Billy, is crowing his heart out. I remember when I created my first flock of chickens. I was excited but ill-prepared for the work I’d taken on. Even so, it’s been a rewarding adventure taking care of my girls as they parade through my life. Most of my original flock has gone to “chicken heaven” now, and saying goodbye was extremely sad every single time. I have lost a fair number of roosters as well, all of them brave and unique in their own way. For those of you living in a regular neighborhood, there are probably rules against keeping a rooster because of their need to crow. I never once doubted the necessity of having one however, because in my rural area they provide protection for my girls, and babies to replenish my flock. I make sure to spend lots of time around my guy. I tell him how handsome he is, and how much I appreciate him. At dusk, when I close up the henhouse and say goodnight to my flock, I make sure to pet my rooster and let him know he has nothing to fear from this particular human. I believe that, because of this, my roosters have never been aggressive toward people, only toward critters who threaten their harem.
It is the nature of things to occasionally lose a rooster, which provides the opportunity to introduce a new guy to your flock. I get young roosters from my neighbor, whose farm is much larger than my own. Knowing how to introduce a new rooster is very helpful for a chicken mommy or daddy who is just starting out. I don’t remember where I got the following information, so I can’t give the author proper credit. Although this is available on line, I keep it handy, and I offer it to you, my fellow chicken keepers.
Initial Introductions
Place your new rooster a separate pen within your flock's living enclosure to help him get used to the new flock. This way, they can get used to each other, without risk of injury. It’s a good idea to watch these interactions, so you can identify birds who seem aggressive toward the newcomer or vice versa. When you feel comfortable that your new rooster is acclimated, it’s time to let out of the pen and into the main coop.
Living In The Flock
It's normal to have squabbles during the first few days, but as long as the fighting is not prolonged and birds aren’t seriously injured, allow them to sort out their pecking order without interference. Provide plenty of feed and scratch to keep the birds occupied as they acclimate. Birds who fight regularly should be separated from the flock. Some roosters, and even very dominant hens, simply will never learn to get along and can’t be kept together.
UNDERSTANDING ROOSTERS
A rooster’s mission in life is to protect and serve the flock. They are hardwired to watch for danger, alert the flock to run for cover, fight off predators, find food for the flock and stand guard as they eat. They find places to build nests and preserve peace by breaking up spats and looking after the weak, young and old. There are individual exceptions, and relationships between birds can change over time and circumstances, so if there is bullying, you will need to intervene. Just remember their mission, and their behavior will make sense. They will teach you many things. One-on-one time for you and the bird is crucial for trust. Hold them, carry them, give them treats, scratch their ears, stroke their combs and wattles, talk softly and cluck to them. I sing to mine. Above all, respect them.
Before introducing a new bird to an existing flock, let them get acclimated in a quiet environment. If the new birds were housed indoors, gradually acclimated them to any drastic temperature changes before adding the stress of introductions. We keep newcomers separate for at least 2 weeks to watch for signs of illness and allow them to feel safe after the stress of impoundment and whatever bad situation they came from. Sick or injured birds must be healthy before being introduced.
TEMPORARY INTRODUCTION PENS
Temporary introduction pens allow visual contact and interaction with a safe barrier of 2 ft vinyl hex fencing added to wire or chain link fencing to prevent pecking injury. Keep new birds separated with secure fencing so they can see each other yet remain protected until acclimated and desensitized. Reinforce the fencing with a 3/4” vinyl poultry mesh, at least 2 feet high. Our pens are 4 ft. x 4 ft. high moveable wire panels fastened together to make a 4 x 12 ft. area. We use wooden lattice for tops. We also have a 6 x 12 x 6 ft chain link pen with a kennel cover. All the pens open into an garden where everyone takes turns having the run of it. The importance of having multiple comfortable and safe enclosures for your flock insures that you can cope with any behavior issues that might come up and still have a secure home for all.
CALMING GROUP ACTIVITIES
Calming group activities such as picking at scratch (cracked corn, sunflower seeds & oats) strewn on the ground on both sides of the barrier allow a sense of communal scratching. Favorite “family-style” foods like watermelons can distract attention and have a calming effect - eating is a very social activity for birds. Wedging a whole head of romaine or other greens in the fence so both sides can tear at it gives them a communal activity involving their beaks with attention directed at a common object instead of each other. Provide dustbathing materials, hay and roosting spots to entertain themselves and prevent sparring out of boredom.
As I write this, my rooster, Billy, is crowing his heart out. I remember when I created my first flock of chickens. I was excited but ill-prepared for the work I’d taken on. Even so, it’s been a rewarding adventure taking care of my girls as they parade through my life. Most of my original flock has gone to “chicken heaven” now, and saying goodbye was extremely sad every single time. I have lost a fair number of roosters as well, all of them brave and unique in their own way. For those of you living in a regular neighborhood, there are probably rules against keeping a rooster because of their need to crow. I never once doubted the necessity of having one however, because in my rural area they provide protection for my girls, and babies to replenish my flock. I make sure to spend lots of time around my guy. I tell him how handsome he is, and how much I appreciate him. At dusk, when I close up the henhouse and say goodnight to my flock, I make sure to pet my rooster and let him know he has nothing to fear from this particular human. I believe that, because of this, my roosters have never been aggressive toward people, only toward critters who threaten their harem.
It is the nature of things to occasionally lose a rooster, which provides the opportunity to introduce a new guy to your flock. I get young roosters from my neighbor, whose farm is much larger than my own. Knowing how to introduce a new rooster is very helpful for a chicken mommy or daddy who is just starting out. I don’t remember where I got the following information, so I can’t give the author proper credit. Although this is available on line, I keep it handy, and I offer it to you, my fellow chicken keepers.
Initial Introductions
Place your new rooster a separate pen within your flock's living enclosure to help him get used to the new flock. This way, they can get used to each other, without risk of injury. It’s a good idea to watch these interactions, so you can identify birds who seem aggressive toward the newcomer or vice versa. When you feel comfortable that your new rooster is acclimated, it’s time to let out of the pen and into the main coop.
Living In The Flock
It's normal to have squabbles during the first few days, but as long as the fighting is not prolonged and birds aren’t seriously injured, allow them to sort out their pecking order without interference. Provide plenty of feed and scratch to keep the birds occupied as they acclimate. Birds who fight regularly should be separated from the flock. Some roosters, and even very dominant hens, simply will never learn to get along and can’t be kept together.
UNDERSTANDING ROOSTERS
A rooster’s mission in life is to protect and serve the flock. They are hardwired to watch for danger, alert the flock to run for cover, fight off predators, find food for the flock and stand guard as they eat. They find places to build nests and preserve peace by breaking up spats and looking after the weak, young and old. There are individual exceptions, and relationships between birds can change over time and circumstances, so if there is bullying, you will need to intervene. Just remember their mission, and their behavior will make sense. They will teach you many things. One-on-one time for you and the bird is crucial for trust. Hold them, carry them, give them treats, scratch their ears, stroke their combs and wattles, talk softly and cluck to them. I sing to mine. Above all, respect them.
Before introducing a new bird to an existing flock, let them get acclimated in a quiet environment. If the new birds were housed indoors, gradually acclimated them to any drastic temperature changes before adding the stress of introductions. We keep newcomers separate for at least 2 weeks to watch for signs of illness and allow them to feel safe after the stress of impoundment and whatever bad situation they came from. Sick or injured birds must be healthy before being introduced.
TEMPORARY INTRODUCTION PENS
Temporary introduction pens allow visual contact and interaction with a safe barrier of 2 ft vinyl hex fencing added to wire or chain link fencing to prevent pecking injury. Keep new birds separated with secure fencing so they can see each other yet remain protected until acclimated and desensitized. Reinforce the fencing with a 3/4” vinyl poultry mesh, at least 2 feet high. Our pens are 4 ft. x 4 ft. high moveable wire panels fastened together to make a 4 x 12 ft. area. We use wooden lattice for tops. We also have a 6 x 12 x 6 ft chain link pen with a kennel cover. All the pens open into an garden where everyone takes turns having the run of it. The importance of having multiple comfortable and safe enclosures for your flock insures that you can cope with any behavior issues that might come up and still have a secure home for all.
CALMING GROUP ACTIVITIES
Calming group activities such as picking at scratch (cracked corn, sunflower seeds & oats) strewn on the ground on both sides of the barrier allow a sense of communal scratching. Favorite “family-style” foods like watermelons can distract attention and have a calming effect - eating is a very social activity for birds. Wedging a whole head of romaine or other greens in the fence so both sides can tear at it gives them a communal activity involving their beaks with attention directed at a common object instead of each other. Provide dustbathing materials, hay and roosting spots to entertain themselves and prevent sparring out of boredom.
BEAK TO BEAK INTRODUCTION
Initiate beak-to-beak introductions in brief intervals (ie. 5 minutes every half hour) under close supervision, gradually increasing the length of time until everyone is relaxed enough to preen, scratch the dirt or eat, and appear indifferent to the presence of the other birds. The enclosure should be neutral territory with plenty of space and obstacles for all to evade unwanted attention. Give the new bird time to become familiar with the space before sharing it with others. Sometimes it's better to start with a few calmer flock members and gradually add the others. Have a first aid kit and several enclosures ready in case you need to act quickly.
Once normal scratching, dustbathing and feeding behaviors resume, supervised face to face contact in a larger space, in short sessions. If there is sparring, after a minute or two, calmly separate one chicken into a smaller secure area and allow the other to remain. Alternate who has to take “time out.”
PEACEKEEPERS
Students of roosters notice the pacifying effect of another avian species. One of our adopters writes-- “Turk (a turkey) used to be a force in our barnyard and would frequently break up fights and keep roosters (and hens) in line. Lucky, our large African Goose, used to break up little tussles between roosters Kermit, Visitor Bob and DeeDee. Now these roosters are further along in years and have settled their flock ranking. As a prey species Geese and Turkeys don't want loud commotions in their confined areas that could alert predators, so it's to their benefit to intervene when roosters start commotions. Hence, a well placed, large, strong, vigilant Tom Turkey, Pekin duck or Goose can be a pacifying force. ”
OBSESSIVE AND CEASELESS AGGRESSION
If there is obsessive and ceaseless aggression once all birds are together, separate the offenders and try again later. Sometimes, the time of day can affect behavior. For example, testosterone and adrenaline levels seem high for roosters first thing in morning or near dusk. On first free encounters, some challenging and sparring is to be expected to establish who will be in charge of flock security. (Note from the Farm Wench: the author is referring to a situation when more than one rooster is present. I only keep one rooster at a time to guard my flock, and if I end up with an extra I re-home it to another farmer who promises not to turn him into a dish of Coq Au Vin!). Sometimes order comes quickly, sometimes it's over a period of days. Trimming of flight feathers and blunting or trimming spurs on larger birds may give smaller birds an advantage until behavior normalizes but should only be done if necessary. Like people, each bird is an individual and interaction with others can be difficult to predict.
"Common food project" by Mary Britton Clouse
ACCEPT, RESPECT AND ADAPT
Like people, some roosters, regardless of breed, will never get along due to clashing personalities or an unresolved conflict. Chickens can recognize and remember a remarkable number of individuals in a group-- especially ones they don't like. Instead of giving up on them, accept that we can’t control others. Respect their complexity and preferences by accommodating the behavior. Provide separate spaces where they can take turns cohabiting normally with other flock members but don’t have to deal with “that other guy”.
Initiate beak-to-beak introductions in brief intervals (ie. 5 minutes every half hour) under close supervision, gradually increasing the length of time until everyone is relaxed enough to preen, scratch the dirt or eat, and appear indifferent to the presence of the other birds. The enclosure should be neutral territory with plenty of space and obstacles for all to evade unwanted attention. Give the new bird time to become familiar with the space before sharing it with others. Sometimes it's better to start with a few calmer flock members and gradually add the others. Have a first aid kit and several enclosures ready in case you need to act quickly.
Once normal scratching, dustbathing and feeding behaviors resume, supervised face to face contact in a larger space, in short sessions. If there is sparring, after a minute or two, calmly separate one chicken into a smaller secure area and allow the other to remain. Alternate who has to take “time out.”
PEACEKEEPERS
Students of roosters notice the pacifying effect of another avian species. One of our adopters writes-- “Turk (a turkey) used to be a force in our barnyard and would frequently break up fights and keep roosters (and hens) in line. Lucky, our large African Goose, used to break up little tussles between roosters Kermit, Visitor Bob and DeeDee. Now these roosters are further along in years and have settled their flock ranking. As a prey species Geese and Turkeys don't want loud commotions in their confined areas that could alert predators, so it's to their benefit to intervene when roosters start commotions. Hence, a well placed, large, strong, vigilant Tom Turkey, Pekin duck or Goose can be a pacifying force. ”
OBSESSIVE AND CEASELESS AGGRESSION
If there is obsessive and ceaseless aggression once all birds are together, separate the offenders and try again later. Sometimes, the time of day can affect behavior. For example, testosterone and adrenaline levels seem high for roosters first thing in morning or near dusk. On first free encounters, some challenging and sparring is to be expected to establish who will be in charge of flock security. (Note from the Farm Wench: the author is referring to a situation when more than one rooster is present. I only keep one rooster at a time to guard my flock, and if I end up with an extra I re-home it to another farmer who promises not to turn him into a dish of Coq Au Vin!). Sometimes order comes quickly, sometimes it's over a period of days. Trimming of flight feathers and blunting or trimming spurs on larger birds may give smaller birds an advantage until behavior normalizes but should only be done if necessary. Like people, each bird is an individual and interaction with others can be difficult to predict.
"Common food project" by Mary Britton Clouse
ACCEPT, RESPECT AND ADAPT
Like people, some roosters, regardless of breed, will never get along due to clashing personalities or an unresolved conflict. Chickens can recognize and remember a remarkable number of individuals in a group-- especially ones they don't like. Instead of giving up on them, accept that we can’t control others. Respect their complexity and preferences by accommodating the behavior. Provide separate spaces where they can take turns cohabiting normally with other flock members but don’t have to deal with “that other guy”.
TROUBLE TRIGGERS
(Another note from the Farm Wench: The author of this article suggested feeding excess eggs to the flock in hard-boiled form. I personally do not recommend feeding eggs to your chickens, only because it could cause the girls to have a taste for their own, or another flock members, eggs.)
I hope you found this article useful. I try to keep up on this sort of information. But, everyone’s experience with their flock is slightly different and unique to them.
- Illness or injuries may trigger aggression between roosters or chickens who usually get along.
- Access to females can trigger aggression, but separating the sexes calms down the competition even if they can still see the hens. The girls are relieved by "boy’s time out" too.
- Hormone levels are highest during a rooster’s first season of sexual maturity. In most cases aggressive behavior decreases with age
- Mating and breeding season varies by weather, but generally, aggressive behavior intensifies in early winter and subsides within a month, resurges in early spring, then tapers off as summer approaches.
- A hen hatching eggs can trigger very aggressive behavior. It’s not good for the flock, because for every chick hatched, that is one less home for a chicken who needs one. Collect the eggs daily for personal use.
(Another note from the Farm Wench: The author of this article suggested feeding excess eggs to the flock in hard-boiled form. I personally do not recommend feeding eggs to your chickens, only because it could cause the girls to have a taste for their own, or another flock members, eggs.)
I hope you found this article useful. I try to keep up on this sort of information. But, everyone’s experience with their flock is slightly different and unique to them.